{"id":77252,"date":"2018-06-04T17:10:15","date_gmt":"2018-06-04T21:10:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/?p=77252"},"modified":"2025-08-25T14:35:37","modified_gmt":"2025-08-25T18:35:37","slug":"build-bourbon-vocabulary","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/gardenandgun.com\/articles\/build-bourbon-vocabulary","title":{"rendered":"Build a Bourbon Vocabulary"},"content":{"rendered":"

Buffalo Trace<\/a> tour guide Freddie Johnson pours a splash of clear whiskey fresh off the still, known as white dog, into the cupped hands of a small group visiting the Frankfort, Kentucky distillery from Osaka, Japan.<\/p>\n

\u201cSmell. Taste,\u201d he says. He instructs the group to shake their hands, clap, and rub them together briskly to smell the essence of the spirit. \u201cClap and rub again,\u201d he says. \u201cSmell.\u201d A smile of recognition lights up the face of one of the guests. \u201cCorn,\u201d he says. \u201cNow one more time. Smell that? It\u2019s like bread.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Photo: Courtesy of Freddie Johnson<\/p>

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Freddie Johnson.<\/p> \n <\/div>\n\n

\u201cThe first time is the spirit, the second time is the dominant grain, and the third time is the yeast,\u201d Johnson says. \u201cWe call it \u2018waking the dog.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

Johnson\u2019s family roots are as steeped in bourbon as anyone at Buffalo Trace. His paternal grandfather was close friends with former company president Col. Albert B. Blanton and, legend holds, personally chose the barrels from which Blanton selected his first single-barrel bourbons. Johnson\u2019s father started at the distillery in 1936 and worked in the warehouse. He was present for the rolling out of every commemorative millionth barrel of bourbon produced at the distillery since Prohibition\u2014a tradition Johnson and his grandson continued when they helped roll out the seven-millionth barrel this past spring.<\/p>\n

As a third-generation employee, Johnson educates visitors from far and wide about America\u2019s native spirit. Here, he explains more than a dozen terms related to bourbon production, from basics like \u201cwhat is bourbon?\u201d to the finer points of barrel aging.<\/p>

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Basic Terminology<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Mash bill:<\/strong> The recipe of specific grains and their percentages that are added to water and cooked individually at different temperatures to break down complex chains of starches into simple sugars. The predominant grain in bourbon is corn, along with malted barley and rye or wheat. The cooked grains are combined to create a mash, then yeast is added, which feeds on the sugars and produces carbon dioxide and ethyl alcohol as byproducts of fermentation, creating what is known as distiller\u2019s beer. (If the yeast is freshly added, that\u2019s a sweet mash; if it\u2019s mixed with residue from an earlier fermentation, that\u2019s sour mash.) The distiller\u2019s beer is then ready for distillation.<\/p>\n

Bourbon:<\/strong>\u00a0\u201cWhiskey comes off of the still, and the moment it touches the inside of a newly charred oak barrel, it is allowed to be called bourbon,\u201d Johnson says. Though bourbon may be casually referred to as \u201cwhiskey,\u201d it has a specific set of other regulations that set it apart from other grain-based spirits. Bourbon must contain at least 51 percent corn in its mash bill, is distilled at no higher than 160 proof, and aged at no higher than 125 proof in a new charred oak barrel (American white oak is the most common, although other species, such as French oak, are also used). Bourbon goes into a bottle at no less than 80 proof, with nothing else added beyond pure water. Barrel proof, or cask-strength, bourbons are bottled with no extra water added. Despite many a Kentuckian\u2019s assertion otherwise, bourbon can be made anywhere in the United States.<\/p>\n

Char:\u00a0<\/strong>The degree to which the inside of a barrel is affected during a controlled burn, which begins to break down cellulose into caramelized sugars and release components that help give bourbon its color and complexity of flavor. Levels of char range from a light toasting to a heavy, alligator skin-like blackening. Buffalo Trace uses a No. 4 char, which is achieved with a 55-second burn that penetrates about an 1\/8 of an inch into the barrel\u2019s interior. \u201cIt resembles an English muffin, with deep nooks and crannies that allows the alcohol easier access to the caramelized sugars in the wood,\u201d Johnson says. \u201cThe heavier the char, the quicker you can get color into the whiskey, but it\u2019s also easier for the weight of the whiskey to pull flakes of char from the sides of the barrel as it\u2019s moved and bumped around, which changes the flavor profile. That\u2019s one reason we don’t rotate barrels in the warehouse. They sit undisturbed anywhere from three to 25 years.\u201d<\/p>\n

Rickhouse: <\/strong>Another name for a warehouse used to store and age barrels of bourbon. Barrels are typically stored on their sides in wooden ricks, or racks, positioned at various heights throughout the warehouse. Constructed of brick and mortar, wood, or with metal siding, most rickhouses feature rows of open windows that help maximize airflow. The bourbon expands and penetrates into the barrels\u2019 wood in warmer temperatures, picking up flavor and color, and contracts in cooler temperatures. Col. E.H. Taylor, Jr. was the first to introduce conditioned rickhouses in America, using piped-in steam heat to warm the buildings during winter. \u201cHe discovered that by keeping the temperature of the whiskey in the barrel above 45 degrees, the movement of the whiskey in and out of the wood would continue,\u201d Johnson says. \u201cBelow 45 degrees it goes dormant.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Terms You\u2019ll See on Bourbon Labels<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Straight bourbon:<\/strong>\u00a0Bourbon aged for at least two years. \u201cIf a bottle says \u2018Kentucky bourbon whiskey\u2019 and I don\u2019t see \u2018straight\u2019 on the label, that whiskey, in most cases, is less than two years old,\u201d Johnson says.<\/p>

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Single barrel:<\/strong>\u00a0A single barrel of bourbon, often selected for its exceptional flavor profile, bottled by itself. Elmer T. Lee, the first master distiller at Buffalo Trace (it was known as George T. Stagg Distillery when he started with the company in 1949), originated the world\u2019s first modern bourbon branded as a single-barrel release when he introduced Blanton\u2019s Single Barrel in 1984. \u201cElmer T. Lee was of Scottish decent, and he modeled single-barrel bourbons after single-malt Scotch whisky,\u201d Johnson says. The difference is that single-malt Scotches are made using a single grain\u2014malted barley\u2014and from multiple barrels from one distillery blended together.<\/p>\n

Small batch:\u00a0<\/strong>Two or more barrels blended together and packaged for release. There is no upper limit on the number of included barrels, or on the size of the distilling operation. \u201cYou might select barrels from different warehouses or from different locations within a warehouse, or of different vintages,\u201d Johnson says. \u201cThe art in small-batch bourbon making is not in how many barrels you bring together, it\u2019s knowing which<\/em> barrels to bring together.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Andrew Hyslop<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Bottled in Bond:<\/strong>\u00a0Bourbon made during a single distillation season (January to June or July to December of the same year) by one distiller at the same site, aged for at least four years in a government-bonded warehouse, and bottled at exactly 100 proof. These criteria date to the 1870s, when the first bourbons were bottled in glass\u2014and some adulterated with iodine, tobacco, even turpentine. Col. E.H. Taylor, Jr., a descendant of presidents James Madison and Zachary Taylor, purchased a small distilling operation on the current Buffalo Trace site in 1870 and christened it the Old Fire Copper (O.F.C.) Distillery. Credited with modernizing the bourbon industry, Taylor was instrumental in the passage of the Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897. The law established the first government-backed standard for the production and sale of bourbon whiskey.<\/p>

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Age statement:\u00a0<\/strong>A printed indication of the youngest vintage of bourbon included in a bottle. If a bourbon doesn\u2019t include either \u2018straight\u2019 or \u2018bottled-in-bond\u2019 on the label and is aged less than two years, manufacturers are supposed to include an age statement. Many super premium extra-aged bourbons\u2014such as Pappy Van Winkle 23-Year\u2014make a point of including the age on the label, although it isn\u2019t required for bourbons older than two years. \u201cIf you look at some of the newer craft bourbons, some of them will say \u2018aged four to five months,\u2019 but they’re still charging $35 for the bottle,\u201d Johnson says. \u201cProof and price are not indications of age or quality.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Terms You Might Hear During a Distillery Tour<\/strong><\/h2>\n

White dog:<\/strong>\u00a0 The clear ethyl alcohol derived from a double-distilled mash of fermented grains\u2014AKA whiskey or moonshine. \u201cThey call it white dog because, even though it\u2019s clear, it will bite,\u201d Johnson says.<\/p>\n

Angel’s share:\u00a0<\/strong>A 3-to-4 percent annual loss of liquid in a barrel as water molecules evaporate and escape through the wood, concentrating and raising the proof of the remaining bourbon.\u00a0\u201cAt twenty-three years old, you may only get five or six gallons out of a barrel,\u201d Johnson says. A full barrel typically holds 53 gallons and weighs 550 pounds. \u201cSo with older-aged bourbons, part of the price is the taxes paid on it the whole time it sits there, while you\u2019re also losing product through the wood.\u201d<\/p>\n

Whiskey thief:<\/strong>\u00a0 No, this isn\u2019t that guy who made off with a bunch of Pappy that one time. A whiskey thief is a hollow, cylindrical tool, often made from copper, used to extract a small amount of bourbon from a barrel for sampling or quality control. A distiller removes the bung, a small circle of wood used to seal the barrel after it\u2019s filled, and dips the whiskey thief in through the bunghole. Placing his thumb over a small vent in the end, similar to plugging one end of a straw, he traps a small amount of liquid in the thief.<\/p>\n

Red line<\/strong>: A visible line in the staves of a used barrel that shows how far the whiskey penetrated into the wood as it aged. \u201cI can put it high in the warehouse, where it’s real hot, and the whiskey is constantly pumping in and out of the wood, which produces flavors that are more in your face,\u201d Johnson says. \u201cOr I can put it down low in the warehouse and let Mother Nature do it a different way with barometric pressure, which allows the whiskey to penetrate deeper into the wood for a longer period of time without the heat. That’s where those older-age bourbons pick up those soft, smooth, subtle flavors.\u201d<\/p>

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Know your \u201csingle barrel\u201d from your \u201csmall batch,\u201d your \u201cage statement\u201d from your \u201cangel\u2019s 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